Christchurch city guide

Christchurch is the largest city of New Zealand’s Southern Island. They are proud of their English heritage, but I wouldn’t say the city looks or feels very English. Perhaps it’s because of its complete renovation following a series of devastating earthquakes some 10 years ago. Look at the satellite photos. Christchurch is just north of the volcanic Banks Peninsula. It looks menacing even from space. But that wasn’t the end of tragedies that befell this charming city. Remember the chilling terrorist attacks a couple of years ago? Those recordings from two mosques? That also happened in Christchurch. People have moved on. People have rebuilt. Now Christchurch is better and safer than ever. But…is it a stand-alone tourism destination? Would I fly across the globe to see Christchurch? Nah, no way in hell. It’s more of place you see when you’re already in New Zealand. Or planning a trip to see the whole country.

The Peacock Fountain in the Botanic Gardens of Christchurch

The Peacock Fountain, an elegant fountain built with money donated by John Peacock, pioneer, businessman and politician, who supported Christchurch since its inception

Once you’re there sightseeing in Christchurch gets physically taxing. You’re constantly on the move, distances between landmarks are not to be scoffed at. Thankfully, most landmarks and activities are basically different kinds of a taxi. The experience is one long ride. Let’s start with my personal favourite: punting. I swear it’s not what you think. Punting is sort of a boat ride. Think Venice gondolas but New Zealand style. Antique boats, heated blankets and the boatman telling you stories are the main attractions. He’ll show you different parts of Christchurch as you pass by them. Like the Botanic Gardens, for example. It's a beautiful park, but there’s one particular thing worth seeking out: the Peacock Fountain. The fountain was sponsored by the Peacocks, a family of merchants. It was one of the oldest families in Christchurch, and the Peacocks supported the city since its establishment. The whole site is a real gem, the fountain looks like something you’d build to celebrate decades of trading with China.

Punting on the Avon is closely connected to an antique tram that runs throughout Christchurch. It’s old, it’s wooden and they serve meals on the ride. Best part is that you buy one ticket and you ride all day. It’s an uncommon experience. The tram drives even through narrow streets and promenades filled with tourists. And no one minds. The Regent Street is one of the most famous ones in Christchurch and luckily, the tram has a stop there. Remember those reconstructed Wild West cities? With wooden buildings, sheds and saloons? This is how Regent Street feels but not with a Spanish twist. The smell of freshly baked cookies hits you when you exit the tram. Everyone notices it, there’s a famous spot but I’ll let your nose guide you. Then there’s the Regent Street nightlife. Imagine something close to Japanese izakayas. Basically they are tiny, hidden mini bars and perfect materal for a bar crawl.

Akaroa lighthouse at Banks Peninsula near Christchurch

Christchurch lies right at the doorstep of the Banks Peninsula, a unique ancient volcanic landscape on the east coast of the South island of New Zealand

The Riverside Market is yet another cool spot for a dinner, night out…or groceries. It’s an essential part of Christchurch, bright, colourful and very modern. It’s spread along the river Avon and you couldn’t hope for a better place to meet the locals. Different food stalls, trucks, craft beer breweries and cafes. That sort of stuff. Nothing overly unique to try there, but the fish is good. You can easily spend a day (and night) there sampling different foods, chilling, drinking and enjoying the riverside promenade. How about a hike to get the guts running, get some fresh air in?

Christchurch Adventure Park is the place to be when you feel like getting out of town. New Zealand’s picturesque nature is hard to beat, especially when it’s warm outside. You can take a gondola straight to the top of Mount Cavendish. There’s a café on top, with the most amazing 360 view on the whole peninsula…and decent pizza. You can partake in all sorts of activities. You can hike, you can mountain bike, but the zipline is the best of them all. You can just strap up and zip down all the way down. I’m too chickenshit to try but people absolutely swear that it’s the best thing ever. Don’t forget to dress properly; it gets really cold especially because the zipline is 1km long and goes pretty fast.

Constanța city guide

I firmly believe that the Black Sea and everything around it should be getting more attention. It’s such a mysterious and fascinating place. I almost feel like there’s something ancient hidden there, waiting to be discovered. I’ll be honest: I was absolutely in love with Constanța from the 90s. It was a diamond in the rough back then. It used to have a bit more soul to it. Back when the Savoy was surrounded by dunes and trees, everything was just a little wilder. Now everything is perfectly in line, like in all the other resorts. Some parts of Constanța still hold on to that musky, dusty, old feel. I’ll do my best to introduce you to them.

Let’s start with the Museum of National History and Archeology. No one speaks English, it’s smelly and flat out dirty. But you won’t find a collection of historic artifacts like these nowhere else in Romania. In fact, Constanța is the longest inhabited city in this country. The museum stands in the middle of Piața Ovidiu – the main square – and it looks like Dracula’s summer residence. This particular building is the former city hall. The artifacts inside include all sorts of ancient pagan relics. Statues of snake gods and Pontus the pre-Olympian Greek deity that ruled over the Black Sea: all very cool stuff. The square isn’t half bad either. Named after Ovidu, or Ovidius the famous Roman poet. Famous might be a bit of an exaggeration, I doubt many young people know about Ovidius nowadays. The square is surrounded by modern architecture, shops, beer gardens and an amazing view of the Black Sea.

Casino in Constanta overlooking the Black Sea

Mamaia's casino, a real eye-catcher in Art Nouveau style

Everything looked different some 150 years ago. The plan was to build everything in Art Nouveau style. They more or less succeeded but the outcome just didn’t pass the test of time…and bombs from both World Wars. I can’t think of a better example of such structure than the famous Casino. This absolute marvel was built in 1910 and there’s a legend linked to it. They say it was built by a ship captain whose daughter died young. He wanted Romanian kids to enjoy moments that his daughter no longer could. That’s supposedly why it looks like a giant tomb. The Casino overlooks the Black Sea and it is a sight to behold. Almost otherworldly, especially when it was abandoned for so many years. I can only imagine people spending nights there looking all sorts of paranormal phenomena. It’s being renovated (as of 2020) and access is prohibited, but you can still see the outside.

You can check the Grand Mosque of Constanța, originally known as the Carol I Mosque, out while you’re there. The number of Muslims in Constanța actually surprised me, but what do I know? I hardly ever visit those parts. Climb the minaret for the obligatory view over the city and the Black Sea. There are more museums but remember that Constanța, at its core, is a summer resort. People come here to party and tan for cheap. Of course, the whole sea resort business is seasonal and Constanța is at its best during summer. You’ll quickly notice this city’s potential when you visit the…marina. Clearly, the resort potential is proportionate to the number of yachts at a marina. There are many in Constanța. Almost as many as posh clubs, restaurants and bars filled with foreigners. They are must-visits for fresh seafood and regional specialties.

Mamaia Beach resort seen from above

Mamaia Beach: one of Romania's most prominent tourist destinations in summer, where everyone young of heart in Constanta goes to party

Mamaia is where all the young people gather. It’s kind of part of Constanța, but also separate from it. You can even take a gondola from the city to Mamaia’s main aqua park. There are no landmarks, no museums, no mosques, no unnecessary distractions. Just one huge party. Fun fact is that almost nobody lives in Mamaia all year round. It’s all tourists coming over during summer. I know it’s a little farfetched but it reminds me of Rio de Janeiro. The beaches might not be as spectacular, but Mamaia can hold its own. Even in terms of fake titties and silicon butts. Romania is a former soviet country and it comes with a few shortcomings.

You have those obligatory theme parks which have seen better days. I seriously doubt they would pass legitimate safety inspections. As would some of the fast food bars alongside the promenade. Stuff is overpriced for a typical Romanian, but cheap as hell for everyone else. It can also get a bit too rowdy in the evenings. At least for my old-man tastes.

Astana city guide

There are few cities that have changed their name as many times as Astana. The capital of Kazakhstan went by Akmolinsk, Tselinograd, Akmola and most recently Nur-Sultan. Why? It’s not very interesting. It went by names which made sense, then it didn’t and now it does again. The Nur-Sultana part is after Nursultan Nazarbayev, a man who ruled the country for almost 3 decades. Safe to say, you don’t govern a country for 30 years if elections aren’t rigged. He “resigned” and the current president changed the name back to Astana. You can change the name, but you can never change a vibe of this place. Nursultan built a monument of a city, something that really sticks out. Especially in Kazakhstan, a country that people have a particular image of. Almaty fits, Astana…not so much. In fact, it has been designed from the ground up by a famous Japanese architect.

Astana sort of pops out in the middle of a vast, flat steppe. The complete middle of nowhere. It’s where they sent people to gulags during soviet regime. It’s where they used to test nuclear weapons. That kind of middle of nowhere. It also feels very empty, almost eerie. Remember that famous scene from Planet of the Apes? Where he randomly stumbles across the Statue of Liberty? That’s the vibe here. Instead of Lady Liberty, the first thing you’ll notice is the Hazrat Sultan Mosque, the second largest in central Asia. It’s massive but not something that non-believers would be overly impressed with. Thankfully it does stand right in the middle of the Independence Square.

The Hazrat Sultan Mosque, on Astana's Independence Square by night

The Hazrat Sultan Mosque in Astana is the second largest mosque of central Asia

The Independence Square is where you’ll find most of Astana’s landmarks. Such as the very peculiar Pyramid of Peace. Supposedly, it’s where leaders of different religions periodically meet to discuss their view of the world. The ongoing theme though, is that it’s the seat of power of the Illuminati. No joke, people believe in this conspiracy theory. I bet it’s only because it’s a pyramid, lots of triangles and stuff. It looks clearly like the world governments headquarters. They rule the planet from Kazakhstan. I wouldn’t be surprised as the building contains a huge conference hall and AN OPERA house!

Bayterek Tower represents post-soviet Kazakhstan. The name literally means “tree” in Kazakh. The curious design symbolizes an egg on top of the tree of life. Think of it as connecting the past with the present and looking towards a new, bright future. It’s much bigger than it appears to be on photos. You can take the elevator to the top and watch the sunset from inside of the golden orb. Because it’s glass, it’s not actually gold. The National Museum is close. A very modern, architectural wonder if I do say so myself. Great museum too if you can handle the obvious propaganda. Sift through it and you’ll learn a lot about the history of ancient Kazakhstan and its place on the Silk Road. There are reproductions of old cottages and all sorts of educational scenes inside.

Astana and its Baiterek Tower seen from above

Astana's most notable landmark, the Baiterek Tower which symbolizes the Tree of Life.

ll of the above is the proverbial “new city”: the otherworldly architecture, all the office buildings and shopping malls. There’s always something interesting and the weirder a building looks, the more important it is. Even the library looks like a spaceship. Khan Shatyr is yet another over-the-top site in Astana. It’s a huge, transparent tent and it’s called an “entertainment centre. You can go to the movies, do some shopping, stuff like that. Nursultan threw his birthday party in Khan Shatyr, they even had Andrea Bocelli sing for Putin and the gang.

I should mention that Astana is very affordable to live in. It might seem like another Dubai but things are relatively cheap. It would be the perfect destination if only it wasn’t so hauntingly empty. It does get a little more crowded at night, as the Kazakhs sure know how to party. Make sure to visit one of restaurants that specialize in preparing horse meat, a local delicacy. There’s a restaurant chain that comes highly recommended, it’s called Rumi and they’re quite popular. Better yet, check in at one of the traditional yurts. People here were glamping way before it even became a thing.

Kolkota city guide

I always associated Kolkata (named Calcutta before) with nun and missionary Mother Teresa, known in the Catholic church as Saint Teresa of Calcutta. Born of Albanian parents in Skopje in 1910 as Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu, she moved to India to devote her entire life to caring for the sick and poor. And when I say poor, I really mean the poorest people in India you can imagine: orphans, handicapped and homeless, and people literally dying from HIV/AIDS, leprosy, and tuberculosis. No wonder that in 2016, nineteen years after her death, Mother Teresa was canonized by Pope Francis during a special mass in St. Peter's Square. Kolkota, or the City of Joy, is easily the best place for your first contact with Indian culture. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still India. Mayhem, crowds, dirty streets, traffic and sensory overload. But it’s not as bad, downright chaotic and life threatening as Mumbai. Kolkata is the capital of the Bengal region, the one with Bengal tigers which are now an endangered species. People here love to point out certain things. Things such as their largest and oldest metro system. Oldest zoo. Oldest port. Oldest polo club. Oldest cricket stadium. India’s very first floating market. Stuff like that. The truth behind it all is that it’s all a bit rundown, some would even say “haunted”. I don’t think I’ve come across a city where almost every landmark is supposedly a beacon for the paranormal. Kolkata can be super creepy, even in daylight. After dusk it becomes a horror theme park.

Victorial Memorial with lion statue in the foreground

Victoria Memorial, Kolkata's iconic and main landmark

The Doll House has got to be one of the most terrifying places on earth. Not only because of its looks but mainly because of the story behind it. A wealthy merchant built the Doll House during the years of British colonialism. At first it was just a regular warehouse, but in time it got filled with thousands of dolls; his daughters’ favorite playthings. The lore isn’t clear about how it went from toys to her father abusing and killing young girls on the premises. Some say the daughter died tragically, others say she was witness to the horror her father partook in. The Doll House is abandoned and locals avoid it at all cost. There were reports of strange figures and eerie voices coming from upper floors. You can even get a badge for reaching the top floor after dark.

Then there’s the Racecourse where people say a white mare roams during foggy nights. People claim it’s a ghost of a famous horse that won its owner a hefty sum of money over the years. As time passed it got older and stopped being that profitable. And instead of living its final years in well-deserved comfort the horse was brutally killed by the ungrateful owner. There’s also the South Park Cemetery, don’t let the name fool you. It’s got nothing to do with Kenny and his merry bunch of friends. It was established as in late 1700s around the time when East India Company made themselves at home in the Bengal region. A LOT of young people died back then because of incurable tropical diseases. It’s been 200 years since the last person was buried here. Is it haunted? Doubt it, but it’s definitely worth checking out. Even if just to witness how the largest Christian cemetery in Asia looks like. Spoiler alert: it looks like the one in New Orleans.

Skyline of Kolkata in beginning of evening including the Armenian Holy Church of Nazarath

The Armenian Holy Church of Nazareth, one of Kolkata's most special churches, built by the Armenian diaspora who arrived in Kolkata before the British did

Enough of this Halloween Special? Then let’s get to the regular stuff. There are things you can see during the day and not shit yourself. Not many but those places exist. The Victoria Memorial is one of them. I wouldn’t call it a “memorial”, rather a “huge palace with gardens”. I’m sure it’s one of those situations where older generations hate it, while the younger ones don’t really mind it. Victoria Memorial is the Taj Mahal of Kolkata. Symbol of a city, a true landmark commissioned by George Curzon, the viceroy of India. It’s dedicated to Queen Victoria, that’s why I think the older folk aren’t very fond of it. The palace is surrounded by lakes and beautiful gardens, everything looks great, especially when it’s illuminated. The problem is that it just doesn’t fit this city. It stands out like hell.Same thing applies to all the churches foreigners built in Kolkata. There’s a Portuguese Church built in 1500s, way before the British came to Bengal. The architecture is rather simple, it doesn’t try too hard. I don’t mean it in a bad way. It’s not ugly, not too big, not too ornamental, just the way it should be. The Armenians also have their own church in Kolkata. That one looks a bit like a mosque, I couldn’t tell it’s a Christian place of worship at first. But then I noticed all the tombstones molded into the pavement surrounding the church. That’s because it stands on Armenian burial grounds, and the first Armenians that settled in Kolkata were Christians. In fact, the oldest Christian grave in Kolkata belongs to Rezabeebeh Sookia – an Armenian – and dates back to 1630. That’s proof that the Armenians came to Kolkata 60 years before the British did.

Edinburgh city guide

I came for the haggis and the accent, but I stayed for the sights!”. Edinburgh is a must-see for every enthusiast of unusual and creepy landmarks and medieval architecture. There is no other city on earth so filled with magic, mystery and good old-fashioned unease. That’s because this land is where the Arthurian legends and Shakespeare’s muses originate from. Scotland changed and you won’t be seeing any fairies around, unless…you plan to roam the streets of Edinburgh late into the night. The Scottish capital is known as one of the most beautiful medieval cities in the world. In fact, it’s home to a staggering number of over 4000 historical buildings!

None of them is more legendary than the mythical throne of King Arthur! Not quite the real thing, but close enough. Arthur’s Seat is a large peak in Edinburgh where, as people say, Camelot used to stand. It’s also an extinct volcano. The climb is easy and a panoramic view of the surrounding area is to-die-for. You’re probably thinking: “Why would they build a castle on top of a volcano, if there’s a perfectly fine castle in the middle of Edinburgh?”. I’m just pulling your leg, everyone knows there’s about 600 years difference between the timelines.

Skyline of Edinburgh by night including Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle overlooking the city with its countless medieval towers and buildings

That doesn’t mean the Castlehill is not worth checking out. Quite the opposite. It’s possibly one of the most unique castles in Europe. It looks like a Scottish cottage that outgrew itself. Jokes aside, it is a historical site that represents the not-so-pleasant past of its people. Learn more about it several museums established on castle grounds. Personally, I would recommend paying a visit to the Witches Well. A tiny fountain commemorating all the women burnt on Castlehill during witch trials. That grim event is engrained in Edinburgh’s spirit and you’ll see many sites “inspired” by it. The Witchery, for example, is a magnificent eatery overlooking one of the squares with the pyres. Decorated with over the top style and accessories. Its also serving great food. That is to say: if you got the stomach for it.

Walk down the hill from Edinburgh Castle and you’ll be on the Royal Mile. The Mile is almost exactly one mile long and it’s the most touristy street in the city. You’ll see most of the Old Town with its nooks and crannies and overcrowded pubs. Try the more industrialized districts if you’d rather party like the boys from Trainspotting. One of the pubs featured prominently in this cinematographic masterpiece, and one of my all-time favourites, is the Volunteer Arms, locally know as ‘the Volly’. If you have seen the movie you will certainly remember the scene where “it all goes wrong big time”. The Volunteer Arms is the bar where mad-man Begbie attacks a man at the bar after losing a game of pool. Or visit Bennets Bar and Café Royal if you’re in the market for proper historic pubs. The Castlehill and the Old Town are especially packed during many festivals that take place in Edinburgh. None of them more famous than the Fringe Festival. It’s a big deal, so big that the ticket sales are second only to the Olympics and the World Cup. Anyone can perform, Fringe includes all kinds of art, from street art, to galleries, theatre and stand up comedy.

Edinburgh's Royal Mile and the St. Giles' Cathedral

At The Mile, Edinburgh's main street, you can find the St Giles' Cathedral, one of Scotland's most important medieval parish church buildings

Hand around the Old Town for a while longer and you’ll come across the St Giles’. The St Giles' Cathedral is one of Edinburgh’s most important landmarks. It was founded in the early 13th century and is closely connected to Scottish Reformation. It’s very simple on the inside, but with crucial details. You’ll have to go on a hunt to see. Various symbols and historic references are hidden within, waiting to be found. The Thistle Chapel is the most enchanting part of the Cathedral. The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle is actually ancient, as in the oldest (active) knight order in the UK. They like to hang out in that chapel.

Once you’re done exploring the Mile, you’ll find yourself at the Holyrood Palace. No, Holyrood Palace is not a typo – “rood” means cross in old English. It’s the main residence of British royalty when they’re in Scotland. The palace is alright, if a little tame. The Abbey Ruins next to it are the cool part. Kings and the highest Scottish officially prayed in that chapel since the 12th century. They’re not called ruins for no reason. They’ve been like that for the past 250 years. People have tried repairing them over the years, but they just gave up at some point. And I think it’s for the best, not everything needs to be whole to be beautiful.

Utrecht city guide

I have one very particular memory about Utrecht. I was exploring around the Old Town, checking out every nook and cranny. I arrived at one of those book shops that seem like they’re almost in a different dimension. It was filled with that unmistakable old book scent. They sold some second-hand occult books and antiques. That’s how I still see Utrecht, a city full of secrets and mystery, cobblestones shrouded in mist like in Sherlock Holmes pictures. It’s obviously subjective, but there are sides to Utrecht that cannot be disputed. It held the torch of culture, religion and education in the Netherlands until the Dutch Golden Age. Utrecht was eventually surpassed by Amsterdam, but the two are almost “related”. To the point that some call Utrecht- Baby Amsterdam. I see it as more of an older brother, the more distinguished, experienced one.

Utrecht is a better tourist destination than Amsterdam. There. I said it. It’s not as crowded, it’s a little slower, you don’t trip over stoned foreigners sitting on a pavement. Utrecht is a place where you can experience the Netherlands without exhausting yourself physically and mentally. First thing you’ll notice is the complete lack of cars, everyone rides a bike here. In fact, the world’s largest bike garage is in Utrecht and one of the centrepieces of the newly renovated central railway station Utrecht Centraal. It’s one of those things you could never imagine existing, until you arrive in a city where everyone rides a bike. You start thinking “where do all these come from?” and you see people riding out from the underground like bees from a hive.

View of Utrecht Centraal, the central railway station of Utrecht

Utrecht Centraal, central railway station of Utrecht and the main raliway hub of the Netherlands

Utrecht’s love for everything on two wheels extends beyond storage facilities. Vast parts of the city are only open to pedestrians and bicycles. There’s even a rainbow themed track around the Utrecht Science Park. It stands for the inclusion of LGBT community and all sorts of different world views on the city grounds. If you’d rather into the history of these parts, then hop on a bike and ride about 3km south-east towards Bunnik. That’s where you’ll find the ruins of Castellum Fectio. Actually, they are more of an outline of what used to be an ancient Roman fortress. There isn’t much left, but the place definitely tells a story. You won’t see any parts of the actual buildings that once stood here as most of the materials were used to be build churches in Utrecht.

Out of all those churches none is more iconic than the St Martin's Cathedral (Sint-Maartenskathedraal in Dutch). Locally known as the Dom, it remains the most important landmark in Utrecht. What makes it so special? Well, with its 112.5 metres in height it is the tallest church tower of the Netherlands. But even more peculiar is that its bell tower is separated from the main building. Not separated-separated, I’m talking on-the-other-side-of-a-large-square separated. How did it happen? Sadly, it didn’t fly, or miraculously teleport away. In fact, it didn’t move at all. A part of the cathedral was blown away by a tornado and made space…for the square. It’s so cool, they didn’t bother rebuilding the cathedral, they just left it in two parts like that. You can climb the tower for a nice panoramic view of the Old Town.

Utrecht Dom Tower illuminated by coloured laser light beams

The Dom Tower, Domtoren in Dutch, Utrecht's most famous landmark and the tallest church tower in the Netherlands at 112.5 metres (368 feet) in height

What else is there to do outside of climbing towers and riding bikes? Well, Utrecht boasts very unique museums. Centraal Museum is an excellent pick when you are into contemporary art, and is hosting interesting exhibitions on regular basis. Museum Catharijneconvent is the place to go when you have a fling for religious art through the centuries. The nijntje museum, dedicated to the world famous white rabbit, created by Dick Bruna who lived his entire life in his native city Utrecht, should be on your list when you are with kids. The museum is also frequented by many Japanese tourists, with or without minors, since Nijntje is particularly popular in the land of the rising sun. Museum Speelklok is one you need to take a guided tour of. It houses some of those most bizarre musical machines in the world, including the one and only automatic violin. Sadly, only the staff can turn these things on, that’s why you need the tour. The Railway Museum is another appealing option. In fact, Utrecht has the largest train terminal in the Netherlands. The Spoorwegmuseum features a complete reconstruction of a train station from the 19th century. Their collection of wagons and locomotives from various époques is very impressive. That’s all super fun and engaging, but my favourite part of Utrecht are the canals. The biggest and most famous canal is de Oudegracht. They’re different compared to Amsterdam, for example, the canals here have an additional level to them. It’s connected to how houses were built back in the day. They had an entrance straight from the canal side, so you could just carry your groceries straight from the boat to your living quarters.

 

Québec City city guide

Québec City (in French: Ville de Québec or just Québec), the capital of the Canadian province of Québec, is a not-so-little piece of France in another hemisphere. Actually, it’s one of the most European cities on the North American continent and a very unusual place. Imagine Disneyland, but then as a functional city. There’s no understanding Québec City without understanding its history. This is where the French arrived in America in 1541. The actual pin-pointed site is now a part of a city, a neighbourhood called Charlesbourg-Royal. It grew into baby Québec City 67 years later in 1608. However, the British have always had their eye on this region. They took their chance in 1629 towards the end of the Anglo-French War. Their victory didn’t last long, as they had to return the city to the French. This exchange of Québec City repeated itself several times. Why were they so obsessed with this particular piece of land? The Saint Lawrence River is the entrée way into the continent. A city located on the river has tremendous importance when it comes to trade logistics.

Fairmont Le Château Frontenac overlooking the Old City of Quebec and the Saint Lawrence River

The Château Frontenac (Fairmont Le Château Frontenac) is a grand hotel and one of Quebec's most famous landmarks, thanks to its location on a high rock, the hotel offers fantastic views over the city and the Saint Lawrence River

Think about all blood spilled on those riverbanks. Now, little kids play ball and fly kites on that grass. The imposing Citadel is the only reminder of those violent days. It’s still functional too, as the only historic military fortress in North America. Mostly ceremonial, but the soldiers stationed there will still fire off a salvo at noon. People used that to synchronize their watches back in the day. There’s also a very special ceremony, but it doesn’t have a set schedule. It happens when the previous one…expires. I’m talking about the consecration of Batisse the Goat, the mascot. What does it do? Not much, they dress it up and it looks cute. At least they don’t try to pretend it’s the same goat for the past 200 years.

Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is like two blocks to the north from there. You can’t miss it. It towers over Québec City and looks amazing after dark when it’s illuminated; 18 floors are nothing to scoff at. Maintained by the Fairmont, a chain of super-exclusive hotels and resorts, the site was opened in 1893. Many such businesses were built along the Canadian Pacific Railway. It makes sense if you think about it. This one, however, takes the cake. It’s hard to even call it a hotel. Frontenac is absurdly large, so much so that it takes up much of the historic district. Three restaurants operate on hotel grounds and none of them serves fast food. It’s also haunted by several ghosts including Louis de Baude de Frontenac, the governor of Québec. His castle used to stand where the hotel is now.

Once there, you can explore the historic district. It’s stunning; it looks like a mix between medieval France and Brooklyn. Picture tiny antique shops, cafes, and stone walls. Don’t miss out on local cuisine while you’re here. Try some baked goods or donuts from Tim Horton’s, it’s Canadian Dunkin Donuts, but better. French onion soup, maple syrup, the CREPES! You can get real fat real fast in Québec City. Thankfully, you don’t need to climb all these stairs, you can take the funicular between the upper and lower parts of the city.

The Montmorency Falls dropping over the cliff shore into the Saint Lawrence River near Quebec City

The Montmorency Falls are just a few minutes drive from downtown Quebec City, a breathtakingly beautiful natural wonder and even higher than Niagara Falls

Wolfe’s Cove Tunnel is another remnant of the Canadian Pacific Railway. This still-operational tunnel beneath the city is a treasure trove of urban legends. Mostly about people stupid enough to enter a one-way tunnel that still has trains running through it. Not very often but still. Historically, it was used to shuttle people from the transatlantic ships to Québec City. Now it serves as a maintenance network for the city’s public transport system.

Take a day trip to the nearby national park to see the Montmorency Falls. They’re only 15 km away from Québec City, you might as well ride a bike there. The photographs don’t serve the site any justice. These waterfalls are much higher than Niagara. The best thing about them is that the administration turned it into an experience. You can watch this marvel of nature from different angles. A stairway allows you to observe it from the sides, or above when you walk the suspension bridge that spans the length of the falls. You can even go deeper and experience it from within if you’re brave enough. Just kidding, please don’t.

Málaga city guide

I have very warm childhood memories involving Málaga. Not the city, mind you, but a type of chocolate candy. It had this creamy filling with chopped raisins. It was also spiked with alcohol and I probably shouldn’t have had any of that back then. Why was it even called “Malaga”? No one knows. Probably just because it sounded cool and exotic. Those two words perfectly describe this city. Málaga is the quintessential Mediterranean destination. Thoroughly Spanish but with clear Arabic and ancient Roman flavours. Locals say that it’s sunny for over 300 days a year. They’re not wrong. It’s also very hot here, as Málaga is shielded from cold winds by mountain ranges. You can see their outline from the Port, one of the most popular districts of this city. The water is warm enough to bathe all year round. The bay is huge and you’ll immediately notice how everything is spread alongside it.

All those tiny cafes and restaurants used to belong to the fishermen. Fishing on a small scale isn’t much of a thing nowadays, so they repurposed. Now they sell some of the best paella and grilled sardines in the world. Fresh produce and even more food can be found at the Atarazanas Market (Mercado Central de Ataranzas). It used to be a shipyard of Arabic origin, hence the exotic name. Now it’s divided into three parts selling different stuff. There’s one for fish stands, one for meat, and one for fruit and vegetables. The middle of the hall is reserved for an incredible tapas bar. They cook using the freshest ingredients bought on demand. Don’t forget to try the Iberian ham. It’s expensive, but the crowd is so wild you can walk around in circles taking samples and no one will notice.

Incarnation Cathedral (La Manguita) and fountain viewed from Plaza del Obispo in Malaga

Malaga's Incarnation Cathedral, nicknamed La Manguita (The One-Armed Lady), because it has just one tower

Wash it all down with a glass of Málaga wine? Don’t mind if I do. Especially in El Pimpi, a legendary flamenco bar owned in part by Antonio Banderas. Celebrities line up for a table in this place. There’s even a sizeable collection of autographs on barrels filled with that sweet local wine. It’s quite an experience. The bodega almost feels like a museum. Visit around early afternoon if you want to explore and make sure you see the terrace. The view from the top is mind-blowing. You’ll see the Picasso museum and his birthplace, both are popular tourist attractions.

The Roman Amphitheatre (Teatro Romano de Málaga) and the Alcazaba Fortress will instantly catch your eye. Those two are the symbolic contrast between different civilizations that ruled the region. Imagine an ancient Roman amphitheater and an Arabic fortress on top of one another. It’s an awesome sight. A Christian church is just around the corner. Not just any church, mind you, but the famous Cathedral of Málaga. It's also known as the Incarnation Cathedral (Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga) or La Manguita, which stands for "The One-Armed Lady". Why the nickname? It only has one tower. There isn’t much of a story behind it, it was just never finished. Cortijo Jurado, also known as Casa Encantada, outside of Málaga has a story, though. It’s supposed to be one of the most haunted houses on the planet. The area was originally a farm. The mansion was built in the 1900s by the Heredia family. Rumour has it that it’s connected to neighbouring residences by an elaborate network of tunnels. It stands abandoned now, and people weave stories about corpses buried on the property.

Charming narrow historic street of the white village of Frigiliana in the province of Malaga, Andalusia

The Spanish region of Andalusia is known for its white villages (pueblos blancos) such as Frigiliana

Gibraltar is a two hour drive away from Málaga. It’s definitely worth a day trip if you haven’t seen it yet. Frigiliana is even closer. It is known as Spain’s most beautiful and well-preserved village. People also call it “the white village”, because it’s white. Before you start to think it’s a racist thing: the buildings are all white because that’s what people did back then. They used slaked lime to “whitewash” the walls. It was very popular especially during plagues, due to its mildly antibacterial properties. Not a unique site by any means; these pueblos blancos are all over Andalusia. Frigiliana is actually home to the Festival Frigiliana Tres Culturas (Festival of the Three Cultures), celebrating the joined communities of Christians, Muslims and Jews.

Innsbruck city guide

If beer courses through your veins and you consider yodelling an actual music genre then Innsbruck is the place for you. The capital city of Tyrol (in German: Tirol) is surrounded by mountains. Makes you think “holy shit, I would not want to be here when an avalanche hits”. Tourists usually land in Innsbruck and get driven straight to a ski resort. The city is often overlooked as a destination on its own. I understand that it’s hard to beat the natural wonders of the Alps. Everyone skis here, just ask some of the older people. Turns out even the grannies venture out into the mountains three times a week. They say there are 900 villages around Innsbruck, many of them swallowed up by resorts. Naturally, it was host to the Winter Olympics. Even twice. You can even have a meal at a restaurant on top of a ski jumping platform. Modern sports such as snowboarding and skateboarding are also popular here. It was one of the “ground zeros” of the snowboarding boom of the 90s. The subculture is still very active here. Snowboards, skateboards, longboards, all kinds of boards are everywhere.

The Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) in centre of Innsbruck

The Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof), marking the marriage of Emperor Maximilian I and Bianca Maria Sforza in 1494, is Innsbruck's symbol and most famous landmark

Innsbruck is a university city with a youthful crowd and vibrant nightlife. That can often mask the traditional nature of these parts. Connect with the roots of Tyrol in its famous Folk Museum. Some of the stuff is really weird, like masks you’d expect to see in a temple in India. Go see it. It’s in the middle of the Old Town. Everything is a landmark once you’re there. The Imperial Palace (Hofburg) might be one of the most iconic ones. It’s a church, built as a mausoleum for Emperor Maximilian I. He probably suffered from severe dementia and was a bit obsessed with the concept of memento mori. He designed his tomb while he was still alive. His vision involved a procession of statues of his imaginary ancestors like King Arthur. The Emperor died before the project was finished. In fact, he doesn’t even rest there; the grave is empty.

The Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) is the symbol of Innsbruck and is also connected to “Mad (Emperor) Max”. He ordered that alcove to be built to celebrate his marriage. The name comes from 2657 tiles that look golden, but they’re actually made out of fire-gilded copper. I’m sure it’s very important for Austrians, but it’s just a nice balcony from a bystander's point of view. St. Anne’s Column, or Annasäule in German, is another important site for the people of Innsbruck. It commemorates the War of the Spanish Succession and the day the Bavarian military got chased out of Tyrol. The cool thing about the monument is the statue that stands on top. It represents Mary as the Woman of the Apocalypse; it’s such a metal name. I love it.

Innsbruck's St. Anne's Column (Annasäule) with Mary as the Woman of the Apocalypse standing on top

St. Anne's Column, or Annasäule as the locals call it, commemorates the day when the Bavarian army was expelled from Tyrol on St. Anne's Day (26 July) during the War of the Spanish Succession

One of the coolest things you can do in Innsbruck is to take the Hungerburg funicular. Board one of its high-tech carts and it’ll take you straight into the mountains. Once there you’ll see the amazing view of the valley and the border with Italy. The ride is the most entertaining part of that trip. Imagine passing through all these tunnels, among all those wild forests. An unforgettable experience. All that Hungerburg probably got you…hungry (ha!). The funicular will take you back to the city centre, from there you have several options. You can do more sightseeing, check out the Hofburg, the Cathedral, or relax in the Court Garden (Hofgarten).

Personally, I would go see one of the popular folk shows. There’s nothing more Tyrolian than munching on a schnitzel while watching grown men in lederhosen dancing and yodelling. Wash it down with a few cold ones and you’re set to conquer Innsbruck’s nightlife. The city is overflowing with students from all over the world. Bars and clubs are packed with young kids playing pool and beer pong. 5th Floor hidden in the Penz Hotel is one of the more popular spots. It’s my kind of place with a wide wooden bar, casual atmosphere, and jazz music. On the other side of the spectrum are the exclusive cocktail bars with leather couches, cigars, and crystal chandeliers. Look no further than the famous Advokat Bar on Maximilian street if you’re into that.

Varna city guide

Varna is a city well-known to the population of the Eastern Block. It is also slowly opening up to the western audience. Back when the Soviet Union was a thing, everyone knew about Varna. That city was a summer resort destination for all the big shots. Even after the Union fell apart. It still has that characteristic post-Soviet feel to it. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not downplaying Varna. It’s not called the Pearl of the Black Sea for no reason. It’s just a little unkept, like an older aunt who let herself go. You can see that proud, once-beautiful woman, who spoke fluent Russian, buried somewhere deep inside. Now she wears the tacky make-up of McDonald’s, Costa Cafes, and shopping malls.

Like with all the other sea resorts, there’s a promenade and the main street. Tourists rarely venture outside of the two. Keep the climate in mind as well. It’s not one of those cities that are in season for 365 days a year. You WILL need a jacket for the colder months. Varna can get desolate in winter too, almost 90% of businesses close down. No one likes sea resorts when the weather is crap. Its summer version could compete with the best of them, though. Overwhelmingly active nightlife, beautiful beaches, great food. Varna has it all.

Varna's Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral with Black Sea and port area on the background

The Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral: Varna's main landmark and one of the largest Orthodox churches of Bulgaria

You can start your sightseeing with the Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral. It’s one of the most iconic landmarks in Varna. Most orthodox churches are similar, but this one makes an impression. The outside is majestic like a giant elephant. The inside is even better, it’s vast and colourful, spacious like no other. Walls are intricately painted with religious symbols and scenes, yet it somehow doesn’t feel pompous. The cathedral remains serene without being overwhelming. That’s hard to achieve, considering it’s one of the largest temples in the Balkans.

From there you can take the main street and walk towards the seaside. You’ll reach a square with the New Yorker clothing shop. There’s also the best currency exchange in Varna, just around the corner. You’ll see a lot of Europeans here, even during winter. As a matter of fact, Bulgaria is becoming a major retirement destination for older folks. Real estate is silly cheap around here and you’ll notice that more and more people speak fluent English. With the climate and all the iodine in the air, I can’t think of a better place for old people to retire in.

Either way, keep walking towards the beach and you’ll eventually reach the Sea Gardens. They’re the focal point of Varna. A giant park with a ton of hidden nooks and crannies. It reminds me of Odessa, they have something similar there. The community “customizes” the area, kids are moving benches to spots better suited for them. There’s a stream you can follow to a tiny waterfall, the perfect place for two lovebirds to hang out. A bridge hangs over the same stream, they say it grants wishes if you can walk through it with your eyes closed without bumping into anything.

Locals and tourists enjoying the beaches of Golden Sands

Golden Sands, the popular seaside resort, located 17 km north of Varna, offers great beaches and clean water

Roman baths are nearby. I think they’re untidy as hell and a bit random. Something so ancient should be maintained well, possibly renovated, but it’s just there. Disappointing. Go for the seaside instead. The beaches in Varna are the typical urban kind, but there’s more. There’s a hidden one in the northern parts of the city, mostly for locals. Golden Sands is the crown jewel of Bulgarian resorts. Beloved by locals and foreign tourists alike. Beautiful beaches, but without the big city hustle. You need to stop by Dalboka, a mussel farm just outside of Varna, on the way to Golden Sands. Learn how mussels are farmed while having a taste of some of the freshest seafood in the Balkans.

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